Apart from Harminder Sahib, Wagha Border, Jallianwala Bagh and Gobindgarh Fort Amritsar has many forgotten and ignored sights. Among these is Qila Ahluwalia, a ‘fortress’ right in the middle of the old, walled city. Located just 100 metres from the Golden Temple, this gem is passed up by a majority of visitors en route to Amritsar’s most visited site. Qila Ahluwalia is hard to spot, not because of the warren of lanes that can confuse the first time visitor, but because this fort now masquerades as the residential quarters of local shopkeepers and is surrounded by a congested cloth market. Yet it was once a spectacular fortress and the seat of the Ahluwalia chiefs of Kapurthala. Qila Ahluwalia was one of the five main forts in Amritsar, the other four being Lohgarh Fort (built by the 6th Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji), Ram Rauni Fort (built by the Ramgarhia chiefs), the Bhangi chief’s mud forts (which served as the base for future Sikh structures including the Rambagh Summer Palace and Qila Gobindgarh.